Samarkand

(uz) Samarqand / Самарқанд - (fas) سمرقند‎ - (ru) Самарканд

Carte

Amir Temur Mosque and the Mausoleum of Bibi-Khanym

It is known under a name of the legendary wife of Amir Temur: Bibi-khanym (Saray-Mulk-khanym). There is a legend that she constructed this building as na expression of love to her husband. Actually it was built as the main mosque by order of Amir Temur after Ms Indian campaign. The construction of the building began in 1399 and was finished in five years. The powerful entrance portal strengthened with the towers- minarets (up to 50 meters high) on the comers. The portal of the main building acts as a mihrab.

In the centre of court yard there is a huge marble stand for the Koran (laukh). It was made at the time of Ulugbek, Amir Temur’s grandson. In later time (XVI-XVIII centuries) this stand was used by some rulers of Uzbek dynasties as original “throne”, where the khan was rested on white felt.

Amir Temur (Tamerlane) - (1336-1405)

Went down in history as a great statesman who made  invaluable contribution to world civilization. Samarkand was the capital of the vast empire united the territory of 27 countries of today. Amir Temur decided to outshine all of capitals in the world by the grandeur and beauty of Samarkand.

Registan Square

Here was reflected the complete multi millennia history of the city. At the time of Amir Temur, Registan turned into a city center of Samarkand. After which, during the time of Mirzo Ulugbek (1409-1449) it got its more prominent status. The Modern ensemble of Registan is made up of Ulugbek Madrasa (1417-1420), Sher-Dor Madrassali (1619-1636) and Tilla-Kori Mosque Madrasa (1647- 1660). There was a monastery of mystics (hanaka) and tombs in the south side of the Registan square known as Childukhtaron among people. They were constructed by the order of Kuchkunji-khan (1527— 1530) and thereby they were added (kosh) to Tilla-Kori Madrasa. The building was destroyed during the earthquake of 1904, and in 1910 it disassembled completely and its place tarred into a square. The current appearance of the Registan Square has been restored during the last 100 years.

The Imam Al-Bukhari Memorial Complex

Muhammad ibn Ismail ibn Ibrahim Al-Bukhari (810-870) is well known in the Muslim world theologist of the 9th century, the compiler of the most authoritative collection of the Hadith (The Sayings of the Prophet Muhammad)

One of the most prominent specialists in hadith in the entire Muslim world, Imam al-Bukhari was born in Bukhara on July 21, 810, and died in the village of Hartang ( present- day Payariq district of Samarkand regio), 25 km from Samarkand, where he was buried in 870. Since that time this place has become one of the most revered places of Muslims around the world.

The time to restore  historical justice with respect to the glorious heritage of Imam al-Bukhari came when Uzbekistan gained its independence and fairness. The government has paid great attention and respect for specialist in hadith (collector of hadith – sayings, attitudes and requirements of Prophet Muhammad), who is the world-famous and all his life and strength dedicated to knowledge. On 29 April 1997, the Resolution of the government of the Republic of Uzbekistan was adopted “ On celebrating the 1,225th anniversary of the birth of Imam al-Bukhari  by Hijra” – the lunar calendar. In November that year the UNESCO General Conference adopts a resolution to participate in 1998 in the celebration of the 1,225th anniversary of the scholar Ismail al – Bukhari.

The majestic memorial at the tomb of Imam al-Bukhari was also built, made in the tradition of ancient architecture in Central Asia.

The total leased area of the monument is 10hectares. The complex is adjacent to the highway Samarkand – Imam al-Bukhari (25km).

Construction of the complex and landscaping activities were led by President Islam Karimov. In the construction of the complex folk artists and craftsmen of Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Tashekent, Andijan, Kokand and Shahrisabz were involved. Based on national architectural traditions (arch, dome, quince and others) the mausoleum, mosque, an administrative building and others were built.

The main facade of the complex administrative building (size 106x12m) faces south. Entrance to the complex is through three large carved gates of the arched building. The main entrance through darvazakhana is erected by big arched avian in national style. In miensaray the dome is erected in diameter of 10.5m. On the front of the entrance portal there are skillfully written texts of the complex construction history in the Arabic and Latin script. At the entrance to large darvazakhana, there are administrative and other rooms on the right. On the main avenue of the entrance of the complex, a modern fountain is built. On the left there is a mosque, the old plane trees and the old havuz.   Pathes of the courtyard enclosed with square limestone. In the central axis of the complex there is a mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari.  This structure in the form of a cube is topped with a seventeen- meter dome. The walls are decorated with light green, blue and white glazed tiles, marble, onyx and granite, floors are decorated with girih; in facing there is also widely used ganj.  Inside, the dome is decorated with colorful ornaments.  The outer dome of the mausoleum as well as the shrine of Temurids in Gur Emir is ribbed. The door on the right side of the mausoleum leads down to dakhma – a place of worship. On the right from the decorated light blue onyx sagan of the top floor there is the tomb of al Bukhari, covered with marble.

At the mikhrab’s niche, the kisva is hung – the cloth of Kaaba, presented by Saudi Arabia’s king Fahd ibn Abdullaziz to president Islam Karimov. The library contains unique samples of the Qur’an manuscripts, various editions, as well as samples of works of Imam al-Bukhari.  Next to the Imam al-Bukhari’s complex there is a building of the “International Center Imam al- Bukhari”, created by order of the President of Uzbekistan Islam Karimov on 23 May 2008. The complex of Imam al – Bukhari is one of the largest and most unique buildings of this type created in our country over the past centuries.  This complex, as President Islam Karimov said, is not only a place of holy worship but one of the most beautiful places in Uzbekistan, which will glorify us around the world. It will play a big role in good upbringing of the younger generation; will make everyone to think more deeply about life and eternity.

Sherdor Madrasa

The Registan ensemble in Samarkand was considerably reconstructed in the 17th century by order of Jalangtush Bahadur, a military leader and politician. Sher-Dor Madrasa and the Tilla-Kori mosque were built at the construction place of the 15th century. Sher-Dor Madrasa was constructed  during 1618-1636 on the ruins of Ulugbek’s khanaka which had fallen apart two centuries before. It repeated Ulugbek’s  Madrasa and by architectural principle «kosh» (pair) is strictly put with it on one axis.

The sizes of court yard and the portal of Sher-Dor Madrasa and UIugbek Madrasa are almost identical. In the inscription on the portal there is the name of the architect Abd al-Jabbar and masters of the decor Muhammad Abbas Samarkandi  As the decor of both madrassah, historical facts, excerpts from the Koran, Prophet’s dictums with vegetative ornamentation are widely used.

Ulughbek Madarsa

Mirzo Ulugbek (1409-1449), AmirTemur’s (1370-1405) grandson, started exlensive construction works in Samarkand, Bukhara, Shahrisabz and Gijduvan. Ulugbek Madrasa in Samarkand was constructed during three years (1417—1420) on the west side of the Registan square. It was one of classic education institutions of the East Inside there is a court yard with 54 cells (hujras), where 110 students lived. The architect of the  building was Kavamiddin Shirazi, who served in the court of Shahruh, Ulugbek’s father. The scale of this madrassah can compete with the largest of Amir Temur’s constructions.

Ulugbek observatory

Ulugbek observatory is one of the unique examples of architecture of the XV century in Samarkand, this is the ancient astronomical observational construction. By order of Ulugbek, it was built in 1428-1429 on a hill Kuhak (Chupanota) in the form of a huge cylinder. As stated in the “Baburname” the structure was built in three floors of 30.4 m height . There were more than ten kinds of astronomical instruments and tools. The major among them was a close to sextant double quadrant with the length of 40.2 m.

The southern part of the quadrant is under the ground, the northern part rises from the ground at 30 meters. Quadrant is built with millimetre accuracy. One degree of the arc of circle of the device is 701.85 mm, one minute of the arc is 11.53 mm. The instrumental equipment of the observatory was the best in the Middle Ages. The device made it possible to determine the basic astronomical constants – the angle between the equator and the ecliptic, the annual procedural constant, the length of the tropical year, and other fundamental astronomical constants. The observatory had also small measuring instruments: armillary sphere, measuring tools of 2, 4 and 7 rings, triangular, solar and stellar clocks, astrolabes and other. With their help the Sun, Moon, planets and selected stars were monitored. The biggest astronomical work of Ulugbek “Ziji Kuragani” was written exactly in this observatory.

Construction and scientific activity of the observatory was connected with the names of famous scientists Giyasitdin Kashi, Kazizoda Rumi, Ali Kushchi and others gathered here on the orders of Ulugbek. The remains of the observatory were found in 1908 during excavations made under the direction of V.L. Vyatkin. In particular, they found a circular wall with a diameter of 48 m and one brick thickness, the remains lying in the centre of the main structure, divided into large halls and small rooms. According to Babur, their surface is decorated with tiles and mosaics. With a huge device, installed at the observatory, the movement of the sun, moon, planets and stars have been studied with high precision.

The observatory had a library. The sky with a star map, a globe with all continents, oceans, mountains, seas, countries were painted on the walls. Later, left unattended, the observatory has turned into ruins in the XVI century. Now the underground part of the quadrant of a length of about 11 m is preserved. Uzbek and foreign scientists conduct scientific research on the true type, internal structure, the basic construction of the observatory.

In 1964 a museum of Ulugbek was opened next to it. As a visual expression of the highest development of science, particularly astronomy, in the epoch of Timurids the Ulugbek’s observatory in Samarkand strikes the imagination of visitors and pilgrims.

Location: Samarkand, Tashkent Yuli Street, 7. Working hours: from 08.00 to 18.00.

The North side of the Registan square was reconstructed during the 17th century. At the place of the Ulugbek caravansarav “Mirzoii” by order of Jalangtush Bahodur the construction was erected to combine a madrassah and a mosque. The construction of the madrassah and mosque took almost fifteen years from 1646 to 1660. Tilla-Kori is not like other madrassah in the plan. The portal of the mosque and gallery with domes lying on powerful octahedral foundations are turned into a court yard.

In the interior painting kundalcolor technology with gold leaf painting on the relief ornament — is widely used. Near the mihrab (a niche specifying a direction to Mecca) the minbar is located (a place for the imam-preacher). The mosque court yard served for Friday prayers.

Gur-Emir mausoleum

The Gur-Emir mausoleum is considered a model architecture of Central Asia.  The building was laid by the grandson and heir of Amir Temur – Muhammad – Sultan as a madrassah (construction started in 1401). However, Muhammad – Sultan fell ill and died while returning from a campaign to Asia Minor. For this reason, his madrassah by the order of Amir Temur was rebuilt and Muhammad – Sultan was buried there.

The famous historian of Temur, Sharafiddin Ali Yazdi wrote that “the dome of this building is high, like the sky, the lower parts of the building are decorated with gilt and turquoise patterns on the marble”. Later, there was buried (1405) Amir Temur himself. Later, during the reign of Ulugbek, by the order of his father, Shahrukh Mirzo (son of Amir Temur) the building was finally completed and turned into a mausoleum of Temurids.

Wikitravel

See

Registan

• Registan Ensemble. Registan became the city square when the life in Afrosiab stopped. Since that time Registan was reconstructed several times. Today it is surrounded by the three medreses Ulugbek, Shirdor and Tilla Kari. UZS40,000.  edit
• Shirdor Medrese, (on Registan, opposite Ulugbek medrese). Medrese Shirdor repeats the facade and composition of Ulugbek medrese opposite. In Shirdor medrese the first floor is preserved, whereseas it is destroyed in Ulugbek medrese. The decorations of entrance portal are illustrating the tiger (“shir” that’s why it is called Shirdor. Ornaments and decorations are very rich, but its quality is worse than of Ulugbek medrese. Shirdor medrese was erected by order of Uzbek feudal lord Yalangtush in 1619-1632. Inscriptions of medrese show the names of the masters Abdaldjabbar and Muhammad-Abbas.  
• Ulugbek Medrese, (on the western side of Registan Square). The oldest medrese on Registan is a large rectangular building with monumental portal and a yard with four-verandahs, surrounded by cells for students and with four classrooms in the corners. In the western part is a winter mosque. The corners of the building are decorated with high minarets. The decorations consists of glazed and unglazed bricks, mosaics, majolica,carving marble. The most beautiful decorations are zhose of the main portal, where geometric, vegetative and epigraphic decorations were used. Inscriptions mention Ulugbek and several dates relating to the stages of construction. In 823 (1420) when the construction of the medrasah was finished.  edit

• Tilla Kari Medrese.  edit

• Gur Emir Mausoleum (Gur-e Amir Mausoleum), Akhunbabayev. 8-19. (aka Amir Temur Mausoeum) As a conqueror there are few that are Tamerlane equal, both in territory and lives taken. It is said that he made pyramids out of the skulls of his vanquished. Today one can visit his tomb in the beautifully reconstructed Gur-Emir Mausoleum (1404-1405, 15-17 centuries) and reflect on his life while looking at the largest piece of jade (greenstone) in the world. [Oct 2019] entrance UZS25,000.  edit

• Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Tashkent kochasi (on the pedestrian by Siob Bazaar). The restored Mosque Bibi-Khonym (named after the wife of Temur 1399-1404) is one of best known architectural attractions of Central Asia. The Mosque was erected on Timur's order after his raid of Delhi. The Minaret of the Mosque was supposed to be the tallest. [Aug 2012] UZS 20,000.  edit

• Shakhi-Zinda Ensemble. Another point of interest is ancient necropolis Shakh-i-Zinda (9-14, 19 centuries)situated on southeastern mound of Afrosiab. This architectural complex consists of 44 tombs in more than 20 mausoleums. The greatest Significance of Shah E Zinda is that he was the First cousin of the Prophet Muhammad PBUH and resembles the Prophet the most. (Hadrat Hissam Ibne Abbass or Kissam Ibne Abbass) {GPS N 39.39.42.4 , E 066.59.16.5} UZS 25,000.  edit

• Afrosiab, Tashkent kochasi (on an irrigated valley of the Zerafshan River, a few hundred meters from the center of the city). The ruined site of ancient and medieval Samarqand in the northern part of the modern town. This place always ensured favorable conditions for human settlements. As proof, one can freely walk through the ancient ruins. A museum is in the center of the remains. The famous Persian Pehlvan Rustam and Sohrab belonged to the Afrosiyob. UZS25,000.  edit

• Khazrat-Khizr, Tashkent kuchasi. 8-18. This mosque is one of the ancient edifices of Samarkand was destroyed by Genghis Khan's hordes. It was rebuilt in 19 cent. A beautiful Mosque stands on the elevation at the entrance of town from where their eye wanders over Bibi-Khonym Mosque, the big bazaar and the mountains in the South.  edit

• Tomb of Prophet Daniel, Afrosiab (Off Tashkent Kochasi, Northeast of Registan). Amongst other curiosities in Samarkand is the tomb of the Hebrew Prophet Daniel, which is in the cemetery section of Afrosiab next to a pleasant stream. For a small fee you may enter the tomb, which contains a burial chamber around 18 meters long. Muslim men will offer prayers while you listen respectfully. After the conquest of Syria the grave was transported to Samarkand under the orders of Amir Temur.  edit

• Ulugbek's Observatory, approx 1km up the road from Afrosiab (Off Tashkent Kochasi, Northeast of Registan). Another curiosity is the observatory of Ulugbek (Timur's grandson). It was located by the Russian archeologists. Only the foundations remain but it is truly extraordinary. Ulugbek was an astronomer, scientist and architect. His scientific and astronomical discoveries greatly advanced knowledge in these fields. The monument is situated in the north-east outskirts of city at the foot Chupan-ata mountain, which in medieval times was called Kukhak. That was three floor round building, decorated by glazed tiles, majolica, mosaic, but it was destroyed. The only thing that was preserved is a part of huge sextant – major astronomic instrument, the lowest part of which was in a deep trench (11km). Both arcs of this instrument are made of marble with indication of degrees. During the excavation works there were found a lot of remains of other astronomic instruments. Even being preserved partially, the observatory of Ulugbek is unique not only for Central Asia, but also for the whole world. The remains of observatory were conserved at the beginning of 60s XX. Here was also organized museum, where collecting the unique astronomic information and instruments related to Timurids epoch. UZS25,000.  edit

• The Mausoleum of Al Buxori Al Bukhari located in a suburb of Samarkand, at Payerik. Al Buxori was collector of the sayings of prophet Muhamed and compiled them in to a book Known as Hadith Bukhari Sharif or Bukhari Sahih. He was buried in the place where his mausoleum is located now. His Mausoleum was reconstructed by Uzbek Government and supported by some Muslim Governments, the bricks were delivered from Saudi Arabia and Kuwait. The project was financed by the Iranian government. The constructers and artists from all Uzbekistan and Iran were working to reonstruct the complex. The Green Marble was supplied by the Pakistan Government. According to newspaper articles Imam Bukhari's grave is visited every day by about 1.000 visitors from all over the world. The present building was constructed on top of the original grave of Imam Al-Bukhari in 1997, 1225 years after the imam's death. The complex consists of Al Bukhari's mosque and grave and a museum exhibiting Qurans from some Muslim countries.

• Abu Mansoor Al Matrudi Mausoleum Newly Renovated the Mausoleum of great Sunni Faqi is located 1 Km from masjid Bibi Khanum inside the Residential area. Visitor has to walk. Mirza Zaheer Ud Din Babur in his book Babur Noma has praised the knowledge and Command on Fiqah of Abu Mansoor Al Matrudi.

• Rukhabat Mausoleum, Akhunbabayev (between Registan square and Gur-Emir ensemble). This is a central square mausoleum without portal with four identical facades. The arch entrance is decorated by blue glazed tiles and eventually the cupola was also covered by glazed tiles. According to manuscripts Rukhabat mausoleum ("place of spirit presence") was the burial place of the Samarkand sufi Burkhan ad-Din Sagardji, who died in 1380s. The mausoleum was built at a time, when central compositions were not popular and decorations of burial architecture was very rich. On the occasion of anniversary of Amir Timur in 1996 all buildings, which were not related to the monument, were destroyed and the ruins of constructions of Rukhabat complex – the mosque, khidjras, medrese and minaret came to light. Lonely Planet recommends to not pay the steep entrance fee  edit

• Abdi Darun Ensemble, (in the north-east part of city). The mausoleum was erected over the grave of famous lawyer. It has been reconstructed for several times. A 'ziaratkhana' was built in front of mausoleum during the reign of Ulugbek. The portal and cupola drum are decorated with geometric ornaments and inscriptions from glazed bricks. In the cemetery are 'dahmas' (large grave constructions), dating to the 15 cent., covered with glazed tiles. The mosque was constructed at the beginning of 20 cent. It consists of a winter room and a summer column aivan, decorated by pottery carving and colored paintings. A small medrese was added at the end of 19th cent.  edit
• Ishrat-khana Mausoleum, Sadriddin Ayniy. Ruined and atmospheric with no people at all {GPS N 39.38.35.0 , E 066.59.26.5} [Aug 2012] free.  edit
• Ak-Saray Mausoleum.  edit
• Khodja Ahrar Ensemble, (in the northern part of city near the cemetery). The grave of the famous religious and state benefactor of 15th cent. Nakshbandi Ubeidallah Ahrar is decorated by white marble tiles covered by inscriptions. The Medrese of Nadira divan-begi is a one floor building with a traditional four-aivans yard composition. The main entrance is decorated by portal, two khudjras are situated on the both sides of it as well as in the north and south parts of building. The western part of building is a mosque with a huge portal, main hall (mikhrab) and four rooms. The mosque was probably built in 15th cenr., but the medrese was erected in 1040-1045 (1630-1636) according to the order of well-known official Nadira divan-begi by architect Dust-Mukhammad. The decoration are very typical for ?VII: majolica, mosaic of high quality. The decorations of entrance portal are illustrating tigers and does. The summer mosque was built in XVII in the south from medrese. The decorations of mikhrab niche of this mosque are very similar to medrese. The column aivan (verandah) between medrese and summer mosque was constructed or reconstructed in later period. At the beginning of XX century ceiling of aivan was covered by vivid paintings. A small minaret, which is situated opposite to aivan, was erected in 1909 by Sadulla architect.  edit

Do

Visit a spa/banya for a Samarkand deep tissue massage.

The Registan ensemble has a nightly "light show" that involves turning some flood lights on then turning them off ten minutes later. (A pretty underwhelming event though from youtube videos it now has additional sound and 3D effects), however it doesn't run nightly but only when tour-groups have paid (unless you have a spare couple of million UZDs to pay for it yourself)

Buy

• Samarkand Zeera is famous all over the world for its aroma.
• Samarkand Pistachio, smaller in Size but very popular.
• Samarkand Shafran Or Zafran is famous but inferior in quality as compared with Iranian.

Cuisine

• Cuisine nationale
• Vin

Spitirualité

• Eglises
• Mosquées
• Madarsas

Culture et art

• Festivals
• Musées

Nature

• Parcs nationaux
• Réserves naturelles

Evénements